Obrigada (thank you), Portugal. Envision a place so deeply rooted in culture, with excellent surfing, incredible seafood, covetable bohemian style and some truly delicious gastronomy packed into its DNA. Here’s ICONIC LIFE’s guide to road–tripping your way through the unbelievable terrain of Portugal.
First Stop: Porto (two nights)
Welcome to the old city. Built on steep hills and famous for its Port wine, Porto is the perfect mix of contemporary and old-world history. When you arrive, check into The Vila Foz Hotel & Spa, right outside of the main Porto attractions in the Foz do Douro neighborhood. Staying here allows for experiences off the beaten path, with a low-key beachy feel, a local vibe and some great food options. Set in a renovated manor house, the hotel boasts gorgeous, sweeping views of the Atlantic Ocean, which is just across the street, making it a great spot to take a leisurely morning stroll. There’s also a world-class spa and a beautiful indoor pool on the property.
After checking into the hotel, I highly recommend strolling to a local lunch at Casa Vasco. This is an excellent first-meal choice, offering great people-watching, incredible tapas and an excellent wine selection. For dinner, Caféína is a beautiful option, set in an old townhouse serving European cuisine; reservations are highly recommended. If you’re looking to explore another local area, Matosinhos is a short drive away with a great authentic Portuguese restaurant serving excellent seafood, Casa Mariazinha.
While in Porto, there are many options for exploration. I suggest ditching your rental car and taking public transportation or a ride-share service into Porto’s central hub. I’m a big print person, so I opted to check out Livraria Lello, the famous bookstore said to be ‘the most beautiful in the world.’ Arrive early and purchase a ticket online in advance to avoid the long lines. From there, enjoy the easy walkability of Porto and explore all the gorgeous architecture, old churches and miradouros (viewpoints).
If you’re open to taking a long walk, I recommend heading across the Luís I Bridge; this will take you into Gaia, where many of the Port Houses are located. Once you cross the bridge, you’ll find a tram that offers incredible views of Porto and is a great way to head into the main section of town.
Head to Av. de Ramos Pinto, a picturesque street along the Douro River with open-air restaurants, boat tours, local street art and a great market. No trip to Porto would be complete without sipping on some Port wine and learning the entrenched histories of how this typically sweet drink came to be. I recommend Graham’s Port Lodge, which has an excellent restaurant, Vinum, for lunch. I came to Porto not being a big fan of Port wine, but by the end of the experience, I had gained a newfound appreciation for the different styles. Give the white port spritz (Porto Tonico) a try; thank me later.
Stop Two: Douro Valley (2 nights)
From Porto, head to the Douro Valley by train or car. Take a lunch stop at Cozinha da Clara at The Quinta de La Rosa. Checking in at the Quinta Nova de Nossa is an experience, as the drive is not for the faint of heart. Once you’ve arrived, the property is situated on a vineyard-covered hillside, with a landscape that feels like you’ve been plopped smack into the center of a storybook.
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The morning comes easily here, with an on-site restaurant and a setting where it feels almost wrong not to do a morning meditation or solo yoga session amidst the lush greenery. Here in the Douro Valley, everything revolves around the main attraction: wine. I’d suggest setting up a tour of a few local vineyards or, better yet, a boat cruise on the Douro River.
Stop Three: Ericeira (3 nights)
Once you’ve had your fill of wine, it’s time to head to one of my absolute favorite destinations in Portugal: Ericeira. En route, I recommend stopping off in Nazaré, approximately a three-hour drive from the Douro Valley, for lunch and stunning views. Once you’ve arrived, head to the Farol de Nazaré, the epic lighthouse that has played backdrop to some of the biggest waves ever surfed. The views are stunning, and the lighthouse provides a perspective on the power and size of the waves.
The drive from Nazaré to Ericeira is approximately an hour, with the local town of Peniche not far away, where many local Portuguese surfers claim to ride the best waves.
Once in Ericeira, check into the new Immerso Hotel. This hotel has been designed to blend seamlessly into the landscape. It offers great proximity to the local surf, two wonderful restaurants and a daily breakfast that I still dream about. The Aethos Ericeira is another incredibly beautiful hotel option.
Ericeira is a world-class surf destination. The beaches are spread out and plentiful, with the majority of beginners learning the ropes at Foz Do Lizandro and more experienced surfers heading to Coxos, where there are also some fun hiking trails and stunning views.
Apart from great surf, yoga and soul-cleansing salty air, Ericeira is one of those towns that plays music throughout the town square speakers. The small-town feel and narrow, winding streets in the community’s epicenter give it a sense of being trapped in time. The food is also delicious. For healthy lunch options, try GiG – Green is Good or Dear Rose Cafe. For dinner, Golfinho Azul is not to be missed.
If you have some more time to spare in Ericeira, there’s a strong digital nomad culture where you can find people working from the many local cafes. Or, try a day trip to Sintra, a not-too-far architectural masterpiece.
Stop Four: Comporta (2 nights)
My favorite drive of the trip, an hour and a half from Ericeira to Comporta, takes you from Portugal’s Mafra region to the more southern Alentejo region. Along the way, you’ll notice the stark contrast in the landscape begin to shape up. The road becomes more rugged, and you’ll see wildflowers, rice paddies and sandy dunes. A bohemian dream.
We stayed at The Quinta Da Comporta, complete with an infinity pool overlooking the rustic charm of the rice fields. Each room, each landscape, and each design is spectacular. Another excellent option is the Sublime Comporta, a divine, unspoiled and magical-feeling property.
While in Comporta, the land is the treasure. Take in the long-empty beaches via horseback, head into the main stretch of town and shop for unique treasures at local spots, Lavanda or Barracuda. When hunger strikes, enjoy a delicious, no-frills experience at the roadside Dona Bia, or if you’re feeling more ‘whole-bottle-of-wine on the beach’ vibes, check out the Sublime Comporta Beach Club.
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Stop Five: Lagos (2 nights)
Lagos is best enjoyed on the water. The sparkling blue waters and incredible rock formations of the Ponta da Piedade are so beautiful that they’re almost tear-inducing. Lagos Old Town is wonderfully walkable and filled with great bars and restaurants. Some of my favorites are Tasca Do Kiko, A Barrigada and O Mexilhão.
We stayed at an adorable Airbnb in a great area.
Stop Six: Lisbon (4 nights)
To close out your Portugal experience, you can’t miss checking out Lisbon. My favorite thing to do here is get lost. The winding, sloped streets make for an excellent workout while immersed in culture.
Each neighborhood is unique and has its own charms. Some of the most interesting explorations have taken place in Barrio Alto, which truly comes alive at night, and Alfama, one of the oldest and most labyrinthine zones. In Alfama, head to the Miradouro de Santa Luzia for one of Lisbon’s most gorgeous views. Along the way, you’ll find locals selling homemade cherry liquor on the street.
Lisbon’s food scene is thriving. My must-do recommendations are A Cevicheria, in the Principe Real neighborhood, for absolutely perfect ceviche in an ultra-cool spot, and O Velho Eurico, where you’ll need to walk in and put your name down in advance. If you’re looking for a splurge, check out Mini Bar’s tasting menu by popular Portuguese chef Jose Avillez.
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