One of Elyce Arons’ prized possessions is an Irish knit fisherman’s sweater that she acquired during one of her treasure hunts 35 years ago. She estimates that the sweater was about 50 years old when she purchased it back then, making it 85 years old today. It’s still in mint condition and is one of her frequent go-to pieces in her wardrobe collection.
Arons perfected the method of maintaining the quality and usability of such a well preserved piece. Instead of dry cleaning, she relies on the natural oils from the untreated natural wool and throws it into the dryer with a cleaning sheet and lays it out to dry, once every five years.
The longevity of the fisherman sweater serves as a metaphor for Arons’ fashion philosophy behind her brand, Frances Valentine, where her bold prints and vintage inspired designs were created to last for generations.
Before Arons became CEO of Francis Valentine or a global fashion icon alongside her best friend, Kate Spade, Arons was a student at the University of Kansas. That changed as a sophomore when she visited Arizona during her spring break to visit Spade’s sister in Paradise Valley.
“We kind of fell in love with it, “ Arons recalls, noting that the dry arid temperatures did wonders for Spade’s lifelong allergies.
The duo transferred to Arizona State University, but the move came with the realization they needed to work to afford the out-of-state tuition. While Spade found work in a menswear boutique, Arons took a job driving the beverage cart at the Biltmore Golf Club.
“ I bugged them until they hired me, “ Arons laughs, recalling the long work days that helped fund her education at ASU, Walter Cronkite School of Journalism. Arons credits her early years in the Valley with shaping her appreciation for the unique aesthetic of the Southwest.
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On a recent return to Arizona for her alumni induction at ASU, Arons spent her down time doing what she loves most: finding treasures in vintage shops. She describes the shops in Phoenix and Scottsdale as literal “gold mines” for vintage finds. Due to the state’s arid environment, many of the pieces are well preserved, she observes. Compared to cities with high humidity which can destroy delicate fabrics over time, the desert air acts as a natural preservative. She notes that sweaters, in particular, lack snags, rips and moth holes.
During her vintage tour, she highlighted two Phoenix locations that were standouts, Antique Sugar and Retro Ranch, for their meticulously curated and well preserved mid-century collections from the 60’s and 70’s, an era of particular interest to Arons. At another shop, Modern Manor, she tried on a leather jacket with a ribbed wool collar when she noticed a name written inside, Art Romley. After posting the find on her social media channel, she received a direct message from Romley’s nephew, who recognized his uncle’s old jacket and reached out.
“It’s those kinds of personal connections that make it really interesting. It’s like a treasure hunt.”
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Arons notes that Arizona vintage possesses a distinct “ Southwest flavor” that sets it apart from other vintage havens like New York or Europe. She discovered an abundance of worn-in cowboy boots with a “great patina on the leather” and garments with intricate Mexican-style embroideries. Arons celebrated when she found a 1960’s orange and turquoise hostess dress with a space-age design. “ You can just imagine someone in Palm Springs at their beautiful half-outdoor home throwing a cocktail party. I love the woman who bought that,” Arons beams.
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Visualizing the woman wearing her vintage finds and creating an entire story about their life informs Arons’ on how she proceeds with her own design process. In a rebuke to the current trend of fast and disposable fashion, her commitment to the quality of garment making is even stronger. Her brand’s mantra “Wear What Makes You Happy” is rooted in the idea that clothes should be cherished and passed down to future generations. Taking influences from vintage silhouettes, Arons re-works the fit of her pieces adapting them to modern bodies. And upon observing how her clientele lives in her designs, she’s added pockets to 99% of her pieces as a functional nod to a tech centric life. “Everybody’s got a phone in their hands, and you need to be able to put your phone somewhere,” explains Arons.
The connection to the desert remains strong for Arons. She recently returned to photograph her spring campaign at Frank Lloyd Wright’s home, Taliesin West and Papago Park. “It was my favorite shoot so far that we’ve ever done,” she says.
For those hesitant to explore the world of vintage themselves, Arons offers this advice:
”Be bold and go ahead and give it a shot.”
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