Provençal Perfection | The Commanderie de Peyrassol

Photo by Joana Vasconcelos

Founded 800 years ago by the Knights of Templar, Commanderie de Peyrassol has thrived as a sanctuary for travelers for centuries. Chosen for its secluded location in Flassans-sur-Issole in southeastern France and for the area’s spiritual energy, the site was once devoted to hosting Crusaders on their way to the Holy Land. The Knights of Malta eventually took over until the French Revolution, when the state assumed the site.

In the late 18th century, the Commanderie de Peyrassol was acquired by the Rigord family, who owned it for generations until French entrepreneur Philippe Austruy purchased the property in 2001. Austruy, a connoisseur of wine and art, has created a unique destination he passionately desires to share with the public. As a result, the wine estate continues to serve as a haven for visitors—those seeking an authentic, indulgent and entirely distinctive Provençal getaway.

Photo by Courtesy of Peyrassol

THE REGION

Located in the foothills of the Massif des Maures, 10 miles from the Mediterranean Sea between Cannes and Marseille, Commanderie de Peyrassol resides within 850 hectares, of which 95 are planted with vines. Fourteen varietals flourish on the estate’s dry, rocky clay and limestone soils. Commanderie de Peyrassol has consciously maintained organic practices with full respect for the surrounding environment. No synthetic fertilizers, pesticides or fungicides are used in the vineyards, which are split into three areas, each suited for red, white or rosé grapes.

The estate’s natural ecosystem is a refuge for various flora and fauna. Ancient white oaks and varied pines are silhouetted against the blue Provençal sky. A magnificent and striking forest of Atlas cedars and maple trees mingle with the rich maquis shrubland of poppies, rosehip shrubs, juniper, crown-of-thorns, filaria, and other flora.

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Many animal species inhabit the woods: Hermann’s tortoise, stone grasshoppers, Cleopatra and Swallowtail butterflies, Eurasian eagle owls, woodpeckers and a few wolves populate the estate. Highlighting the particularity of this biodiversity, the National Inventory of Natural Heritage has classified the ecosystem as a natural area of environmental interest.

Photo by Fran Miller

THE CUSINE

Gastronomy is nearly as crucial to Commanderie de Peyrassol as its wines. The property boasts two restaurants, each a destination for visiting and overnight guests. The enchanting Chez Jeannette is the property’s fine dining establishment overseen by Chef de Cuisine Vivien Rouleaud. Set among the vineyards, it features an al fresco patio that’s the ideal spot for an aperitif. Chez Jeannette offers seasonal cuisine prepared using the best Provençal products, many of which come directly from the Commanderie de Peyrassol vegetable garden.

Think Pot-au-Feu–a popular French dish made of slowly-broiled meat and vegetables– in ravioli, served in a lightly truffled broth; coeurs d’artichauts–artichoke hearts– steamed within fig leaves; and rich and luscious ris de veau–sweetbread– each dish artistically plated. Chef Rouleaud and his team take center stage in the open kitchen, allowing diners a peek into their culinary artistry.

Le Bistrot de Lou is the place for a proper Provençal lunch, enjoyed within the village square under the canopy of shade trees. Bountiful salads and simple, succulent beef, pork, and fish dishes cooked over an open flame are perfectly paired with the estate’s wines. The Thursday evening “Sunset at Peyrassol” is popular with locals. It is a convivial al fresco summer concert series and the perfect backdrop for the restaurant’s excellent charcuterie, cheeses, estate wines, and cocktails.

Photo by Sislej Xhafa

THE HOSPITALITY

In creating Peyrassol as a beacon of hospitality, Austruy purchased a charming country home within walking distance of the winery and refurbished it as a period-authentic, welcoming B&B. Bastide de la Rouvière dates to 1835; its varied rooms feature genuine French decor and antiques. Perfect for a romantic weekend getaway in any season, La Rouvière, surrounded by lush greenery and gardens, is peaceful and tranquil.

A swimming pool features a comfy chaise lounge area and the relaxed sophistication of the living room creates a space to enjoy a digestif of Port while communing with fellow guests by a roaring fire. A gracious buffet breakfast is offered each morning. Enjoy croissants, cakes, cappuccinos, yogurt, farm-fresh eggs and freshly squeezed orange juice. Make your stay even more relaxing by booking a wellness massage. Several inviting rooms are also offered in the heart of the Commanderie.

Photo by Fran Miller

THE ART

Passionate about contemporary art, Austruy, together with Valérie Bach, owner of Galerie La Patinoire Royale Bach in Brussels, dreamed of transforming Peyrassol into an open-air museum, with individual pieces displayed in symbiosis with the outdoor environment.

The Commanderie now serves as Europe’s premier monumental sculpture park, bringing together the works of more than 50 top artists from all corners of the globe, representing a range of mediums. Buildings, gardens and forest trails are filled with Austruy’s world-class collection, which includes art by Bernar Venet, Daniel Buren, Frank Stella, Jesús-Rafael Soto, Jaume Plensa, and numerous others.

Sculptures rise within the vineyard and lurk within woodland paths. A trail map leads guests to colorful and whimsical works that complement, and sometimes conflict, with the natural environment. The entire property is a feast for the senses.

Since 2016, the collection’s most delicate works have been housed in a concrete and Corten steel setting designed by architect Charles Berthier in the heart of the vineyards. An artistic entity, the space is bathed in a well of light and features both permanent and temporary exhibits. Here, you’ll find dedicated spaces with pieces by some of the most famous modern and contemporary art names, such as Jean Dubuffet and Sol LeWitt. (This space is open via guided tour only.)

Photo by Fran Miller

THE WINE

Last but not least are the wines of Peyrassol. Delicate, ethereal and purely Provençal, Peyrassol’s Rosé wines are a beautiful and delicious representation of the Côtes de Provence region. Rosé is what the winery is most known for, yet Peyrassol also makes silky, full-bodied reds and elegant, light whites, each perfectly expressing the terroir from which it emanates.

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As of its 2022 vintage, Peyrassol now only produces certified organic wines, an outstanding achievement reinforcing the winery’s pioneering status. The domain’s most prestigious cuvée is Le Clos Peyrassol, a pale pink Rosé blend of Cinsault, Grenache and Tibouren that received Wine Advocate accolades in 2020, tying for first place as the best Côte de Provence Rosé.

Le Clos Peyrassol Red is primarily Syrah, with a slight blend of Cabernet (~10%) and has a beautiful garnet-black color. Balsamic and smoky notes give this wine a wild, intense character. And Le Clos Peyrassol Blanc de Blanc is a golden Rolle of finesse and elegance. All wines can be sampled and purchased at the estate.

Philippe Austruy is also the owner of several other estates in France and Europe, including the Château Malescasse in the Haut-Médoc, the Quinta da Côrte in the Douro and the Case Nuove in Tuscany.